Progress is slow again...

So the first build day arrives after the move and the plan is for a full 12 hour shift and as usual 'best laid plans' and all... New home commitments sees me having to travel first thing in the morning to order some new furniture, from there I have to drop one of the cars in for MOT. I Finally make it to my father for around 11:00am (not so sure about the 12 hours now!). First up is to connect up the front canopy stay, easy one would think but now we discovered that the stay would foul the horn on full travel ($%*&!). So first job was to solve this problem and not wanting a hole in the chassis for no reason we decided to leave the stay where it was and move the horn down about an inch. This was duly done and the front canopy was left to one side for the moment allowing us to get on with the job of solving the hazard switch electrics and other dash odds 'n sods.

First I discovered that I still had not wired up the Stack dash fuel and oil temperature wires. This was duly done with no real problems utilising the white and brown (one side of the oil pressure sensor) wire for the oil temperature. I don't want to go into the wiring for the hazards as for one it's too complex and two I don't understand it anyway (my father does!). The main issue with the new wiring is that it utilised two additional relays. These were attached to a bracket that my father had fabricated, the bracket was then riveted to the drivers side cover plate as shown below. At last we had the hazards up and running (phew!).
 


With this now done it was time to start looking and any further wiring job/issues before I loomed up all the loose wiring up under the dash (not easy in itself). Having already had a problem with the starter switch it had still not been wired for illumination so out it came and back to the drawing board we went. If you are trying to use the existing Ultima wiring and trying to get the button to illuminate there is a small issue to overcome. The problem is that the switch is operated via (brown permanent live & white/red starter), the illumination requires a ignition switched live (green). The answer (thanks again to Superman (see previous updates)) appears to be the following. Connect the switch as follows:

Pin 1 Red/White
Pin 2 Green
Pin 3 Ground

This will allow the switch to illuminate when the ignition is switched on and the white/red to be energised when the button is depressed...

With this now done it was time to start to think about tiding up all the loose ends hanging drop the dash, this was a job in itself and was accomplished with the use of lots of small cable ties. Once complete the cockpit was looking pretty fine, but by this time it was fast approaching 9:00pm, time to call it a day.

The front canopy was then placed back on the car and a quick pic was snapped for the update.

Next update should be on Monday, until then...

Riveting and Bolting (that's better)...

After months of hiding underneath the dash playing with those pesky wires at last we get back to some normality of bolting and riveting parts to the chassis. But even that was fraught with danger (well not really but some modifications were in order). The fun started when we realised that fitting the passenger footrest was going to be all but impossible as the body was now fully fitted. The main (and only) problem is that you cannot get to the back line of rivets to fix the footrest into position. One possible route was to bend the footrest flat and then rivet and bend back. But if that was done it would be impossible to get the side support plates in, so this was obviously a no go. The best solution that we came up with was the manufacture of a support plate/bracket that would be riveted to the back line of rivets and allow the front flange of the footrest to slide underneath it. This can be seen more easily in the pic provided.

         

With the existing holes drilled out in the passenger floor the new plate/bracket was measured and drilled with the help of the rivet jig. The plate was then riveted into position and the front flange of the footrest could be slotted under the recess (perfect fit, well chuffed and thanks to Mark Cooper & Mike Steel for the manufacture of the bracket at very short notice). Next it was time to fit the footrest side supports these were an excellent fit but there was not a lot of meat on either surface to rivet to. So we decided to use 2.4mm rivets (rare but useful!), this again turned out really well with no rivets breaking the edges. With the footrest now assembled and the cockpit floor cleaned the footrest could be slid into position and the front line of rivets fixed into position, job done.

Next up was the fitting of the seats being very careful not to damage the inside of the cockpit. Fitting of the rails and slider handle were simple enough with the cap head bolts provided. The passenger seat was offered in to position first, this then allowed me to crawl under the car and attempt to insert the bolts through the floor and up into the rail. The nearest ones were easy enough and were held in position with some gaffe tape. The far ones needed to be inserted with the socket wrench as without it I didn't have enough reach. With all four bolts now in position the nuts could be applied, the back ones were easy enough (by sliding the seat forward) but the front were basically a no go. The answer was to undo the back bolt to allow the seat to be lifted to allow the nuts to be positioned. Unfortunately we had run out of time by now as we were already burning the midnight oil.

                   

Next time I hope to complete the seats, harnesses and fire extinguisher, this will mean the cockpit will be complete. Until then...
 

Yes I've sat in the car and made engine noises...


On Sunday we had a few hours to spare (about 4) to attempt to complete the cockpit section of the build.  First job was to complete the fitting of the passenger seat to the chassis floor, this at first seems easy but after much cursing (Dad!) it was evident that it was more awkward than it first appeared.  This is due to the fact that the runners are fitted to the seat first and then the runners to the chassis floor, but it is extremely difficult to get the front nuts on inside the cockpit as access is almost non existent.  The best method appeared to be to attempt the front bolt/nut assembly first, this allows the seat to be tilted and the nut can be coaxed into position with a small screw driver, the bolt can then be gently inserted from underneath.  We also found it necessary to jack the chassis up a little as my arm was not long enough to reach the inner bolts from the underside of the chassis.

Next and before the drivers seat was the fitting of the fire extinguisher (supplied by Ultima).  This fits perfectly between the seats on a bracket that can be fitted to the centre line of rivets on the inner rear bulkhead. Two of the existing rivets were drilled out to 8mm using a stepped drill (damn fine things they are too) the further 1mm (9mm hole required for rivnuts) was done with a hand file.  Reason being I didn't want to run the risk of puncturing the outer rear bulkhead (that would of been a bad thing...).  With the rivnuts now in place the bracket could be connected using the lower mount and the sliding one provided.  The extinguisher is orientated 'handle forward' for easy access and to avoid any fouling on the seats.  With the extinguisher now in place the drivers seat could be fitted.  The drivers seat was fitted with no real problems and once the covers were removed I was amazed at how good a quality the seats were (I had thought of buying elsewhere, glad I didn't).

         

Next up was for me the 'piece de resistance' the Sabelt harnesses that I had made for the GTR by Sabelt (thanks to Nigel Dean for all his help).  These really set off the interior and the seats well (that's why I had the logo embroidered in yellow, makes a little more sense now).  The fitting of these required no description just an 17mm spanner.  Sabelt harness pads were then also fitted and also looked fab.  The belts cost £300.00 inc VAT for the pair and can be ordered utilising the business card below.

                   

PC woes, but good build progress...


This update had already be written when disaster struck for the second time during my web rants. My home PC let go (that's the clean version of events), last time it was my laptop hard drive that failed. Anyway this update comes a little later than normal due to reason best not talked about, so on to the update.

On Saturday my father and I tackled the final stages of the fuel system, this basically consisted of the cutting of numerous lengths of steel braided fuel hose and connecting up the relevant components. Unfortunately I have no pics this week as I forgot to take the camera down to may fathers (Doh!). So lots of rambling I'm afraid...

First up was the tank to tank link this joins the upper nozzles together, although I'm not too sure why (breathing, safety maybe). The instructions that I had seemed to suggest that this pipe should be 1250mm long although the one supplied was in excess of 1400mm. This was cut down as this longer length seemed a little excessive. Cutting the pipe at first seems no easy feat but the best way (as suggested by Ultima) is to use a chisel and a big hammer (bloody hell!, that's never right...). But sure enough it works like a dream and creates no particles of metal that could get caught up in the pipe. This was done using a block of aluminium to support the pipe, instead of wood which tends to bounce more when struck. With the first pipe cut to length it was time to add the connectors. At first it would appear to be one of those 'there's now way that's going on there' items, but with a little grease and a bit of persuasion both ends are soon on. This was then offered into position across the rear bulkhead and it was decision time as to where to clip the pipe. We decided to use the existing rivets (holding the body to the bulkhead) save drilling new ones, five p clips were used utilising the central pillar as a starting point. Not 100% sure its is going to be OK but fingers crossed as it certainly looks good as the pipe lies on the body/bulkhead join.

The rest of the pipes were cut and assembled in the same way, the dimensions used were from a small document available from Ultima, although I had to lengthen the right hand side pipe (drivers) from the non return valve to the 'T' section, which incidentally is not located centrally but is offset to the left slightly (this can be seen clearly in the pics in the build manual). Lastly the fuel filter was added to the 'T' section via a small length of pipe. The final pipe from the top of the fuel filter to the carb will be cut later. All pipes were then secured into position this is best done (as are the connectors) with spanner covered in some tape to protect the anodised ends as they tend to mark easily.

Later in the week I will be contacting American Speed to place that all important order. Today I have also had it confirmed my G50 gearbox is in at the factory and I have placed an order for all the final parts (wing, exhaust, clutch assembly etc).

Saturday will hopefully see me complete the engine bay, things are coming together at last. My car is booked in back as the factory for SVA/Check etc. for the first week in February, for the car to be returned for the 1st March 2004. Until next time, James...
 

Wednesday 29th October 2003...

Today after some 16 months of deciding I have finally order my engine from Gail at American Speed.  After much thought and numerous chats with Gail and the boys at Ultima I opted for a 383ci (6.3ltr) 500 bhp / 515 ftlbs V8.  While this is more than I originally was going for (well you gotta have at least 500 haven't you...) I opted for this engine due to the major revisions in and around the head assembly that is only present in the 480bhp engine and up.  I have also opted for a mechanical cam assembly to allow the engine to rev to 7000rpm and also should be a little more reliable, although the trade of is that it will be a little noisier/tappety.  Also while ordering the engine I got Gail to chuck in 4 crates (48 off cost $96.00) of Pennzoil and and half a dozen oil filters.  This will allow me a few services (every 1500 miles) over the coming years.

Ok that's all folks, c u Monday...